Showing posts with label photos. Show all posts
Showing posts with label photos. Show all posts

Friday, 20 June 2008

The Redwoods of California.

The Redwood forests of California were the last place on our travels that I'd been dreaming of visiting for the past year. I remember looking at photos of the Californian forests this time last year, before we'd even booked our flights, and showing the photos to Steve, in an attempt to tempt him to take the trip. So I was really excited to finally be walking around the Redwood Forests.

We headed to California sooner than expected, as Oregon (beautiful as it was) was just too cold and windy for an outdoor life. So we got into the RV and headed south, and before we knew it we were in the redwoods, about a week ahead of schedule. The Redwood forests span many miles along the Californian coast. We drove through the national park, as well as countless state parks along the way. The drive was just magical. Winding roads lined with the tallest, biggest trees on the earth. The forest smelled so fresh and pure. Everything was huge there. Not only the trees, but the ferns, and the clover, were all giant sized. The Redwoods only grow in this region because of the amount of water on offer from the rain, river, sea and fog. The forests runs right down to the seashore. Driving through the park when the fog starts to set through the tree tops is a spooky experience!

Little Barney was the first one to set trail into the forest. Dan and I accompanied him on a hike whilst Jimmie and Annabelle chose to stay in the RV. (It's taken 5 months of no TV and no toys, but Jimmie has finally taken up reading as a hobbie! I never thought I'd see the day!) Barney was totally inspired by the forest. The trees seemed huge to us as adults, so I'm sure they seemed even bigger to him. He ran through the trees, leading the way, and stopping every 10 metres or so to point out another huge specimen. Some of the trees had millions of newly hatched caterpillars crawling about them, which Barney found amusing. Every now and then he'd call out "don't tread on that caterpillar" as he ran on ahead.

We took another hike to see 'The Big Tree' (which is the one in the top most photo on this post). This tree is at least a thousand of years old and really is quite some size, as you can see in the photo. We took our junior ranger programs on this hike with us and learnt why it is important not to climb on the fallen logs in the forest. The fallen trees act as nursery logs to new seedlings, and a home to many animals. We studied one of the nursery logs for the kids ranger badge and made sketches of it. This was to be the childrens last junior ranger program of the trip, so we made the most of it. On this walk we discovered a tree that had a little entrance way into it, like a cave. The tree was still growing, but Dan and the kids were able to crawl right inside it and sit within its trunk as if they were in a little hut! The forests really did feel like some sort of jurassic jungle. The kids half expected dinosaurs to come running out at them!



We stayed in a campsite very close to the redwoods so that we could continue exploring the next day. When we finally decided it was time to move on we eventually found ourselves driving along the famous 'Avenue of the Giants', which is basically a scenic road that runs along side the motorway, driving through more Redwood forests. Along this road we found a campsite to stay in. The campsite had only just opened and since we were one of the first customers they gave us a free redwoods mug. That campsite is where the photo was taken, of Annabelle and Barney sitting inside a hollowed out redwood log.

After our few days in the forest we decided it was time to give the children some beach time. We'd been promising them a warm beach for hundreds of miles. So we stayed in a sea side town called Fort Bragg where we found a beautiful secluded beach to lay on for a day. The best thing about the beach was that it had a large pool of warm water that hadn't washed out to sea. It was perfect for the kids to play safely in and they had a great day getting sand into every possible part of their bodies.

Saturday, 14 June 2008

The coast of Oregon

It's been a while since I last posted a blog. We've been on a mammoth, exhausting drive across Idaho and Oregon, to get to the Oregon coastline. At last we have arrived. The weather in Oregon has been rainy and cold, so we just headed across as quick as we could. The scenery was second to none, but the weather made it impossible to enjoy. We arrived at the coast three days ago and are slowly driving south towards California.

The Oregon coastline is famed as one of the most beautiful drives in America. And that's not untrue. The shoreline is beautiful. Most of the beaches are protected as state parks, and so they are clean and perfectly unspoilt. Oregon has a lot of trees, and these grow right up to the beach edges. It makes for some stunning scenery.

chips. I've so desperately missed chips since leaving home. They just We arrived firstly in Newport, Oregon. The locals told us that the best scenery was either heading north or south, but we were tired so we stayed for two days in Newport. Our RV park was next to the big bridge there, by the docks, and at night we could hear seals singing! The first day we arrived at dinner time and so we just eat and relaxed for the night. But on our second day we ventured out. Dan had discovered a 'fish n chip' shop that claimed to sell real English fish and chips. I've been missing proper chips so badly since we left. Chips just don't exist here. Chips means crisps here, and if you order burger and chips, you get burger and a packet of crisps. So disappointing. And everything else comes with fries, which just aren't the same. So we headed to this fish and chip shop for lunch. The place was packed! People were queueing for their chips. It was a good sign. But sadly, despite the queue, the chips were nothing more than crinkle cut oven chips, all soggy and very disappointing. If someone opened a real chip shop here, they could make a fortune!

After our soggy pretend chips we just headed off for a drive, and stumbled accidentally upon Yaquina Head area of natural beauty. We were allowed into it free of charge with our America the Beautiful Pass, so we headed in to see what was there. We were so lucky to stumble across this place! The main attraction here was the old lighthouse, which we toured. But down by the black pebble beach was seal island. Despite the cold and the wind we headed down to this beach where the kids were delighted to find rock pools full of sea life. Starfish of all sorts of colours, sea urchins, sea anemones, hermit crabs, huge mussels and clams, were but some of the creatures living here. I was as excited as them to explore the rock pools. The beach was a hive of wildlife activity. In the sea were some huge rocks, almost islands. One of them was topped with literally thousands of sea birds. One seemed to be home to a large family of Pelicans. And the other few were inhabited by seals, and their new pups. Most of the seals were sunbathing on the rocks, calling to each other occasionally. But four of the seals were playing in the ocean, near the shore, where we could just sit and watch. They were waiting for the pelicans to catch fish. As the pelicans pulled a fish out of the sea, the seals would swim over and steal it. We had so much fun sitting there for an hour just watching the seals and pelicans playing in the ocean. It was magical.

The following day we started heading south towards California, where our trip will finish in just over 2 weeks time. The coastal drive has been beautiful. Beaches full of driftwood. We stopped last night in an RV park near some sand dunes, and this morning we will take a walk along the dunes before driving south some more. We are chasing the sunshine it seems. Hopefully we will see some more sun before we leave!

Friday, 13 June 2008

Craters of the Moon N.P, by Dan

written by Dan

After an all you can eat pancake breakfast (Dan 6) (Barney 1) (Abigail 2)
(Jimmy 8) (Bree - did not get up in time!), we headed on across Idaho. We stopped at Craters of the Moon National Monument. Poor Bree was not feeling the best and lay down on the sofa in the RV, occasionally popping her head up for a quick look, that’s why I am writing this short blog.

Craters of the Moon is a barren area of lava flows, cinder cones (mini volcanoes), and volcanic tubes. This is an arid region, and the meager rainfall is quickly siphoned away through the loose volcanic soil. Historically uninhabited, and unused except for hunting, and trapping. It was called "Craters of the Moon" because, it was imagined that this is what the moon must look like. (Yes I stole that bit from a web page).

As it was a very small place to visit, the kids finished their junior ranger programs and we headed west towards our next town which was Stanley. We had already done a lot miles so we stopped when we noticed a little ranch in the middle of the mountains, so we stayed there the night. It was beautiful and there were still signs that they had a lot snow there, including the hundreds of snowmobiles that were available for hire during the snow season.

The next morning we made our way to Stanley which was a lovely little town that was recommended to us by lots of people. The drives continue to be an amazing part of our trip. Everywhere seems to has such stunning views, and what’s more, they seem to be different. Many days we travel a lot and it makes such a big difference to stay off the big interstates and pick the longer scenic drives.

We are now in Nampa after filling our boots in an all you can eat restaurant and will be heading into Oregon in the morning.

OK not too good at this blogging! Forgot to post it. We have now been in Oregon for a few days and have made our way over to the coast (Newport). From here its straight down the coast Rd to San Francisco . Our first night in Oregon we stayed in the middle of a national forest. When we got there we were the only ones in the whole area, we thought more would turn up but nobody did. It was kinda scary sleeping in the middle of the forest all by ourselves. After a lovely fire we headed off to bed and it was not until the middle of night that we worked out why we were alone. It was COLD. Summer has not turned up in Oregon yet, instead we woke up to snow.
From what I have seen of Newport is a lovely place and we will be checking it out today.

The rest of the Idaho photos are here.

Friday, 6 June 2008

Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Yellowstone National Park is almost joined onto the Grand Teton Park, so it was only a short drive north before we were there. We were shocked at how much snow was still around. The drive into the park was past snow which was often 6 ft deep! We both started getting a little worried at how we would manage to camp in the cold, but thankfully the campsite was at a different elevation and the snow had all melted there. (Although it was still incredibly cold at night.) Most of the roads leading into Yellowstone are closed for a lot of the year due to thick snow coverage. The drive into the park was magical though. To go from deserts to a winter wonderland is quite surreal. We drove past frozen lakes, miles and miles of snow and huge pine tree forests.

We spent about 4 days in Yellowstone, which had almost as much wildlife as Teton did. We had been told Yellowstone was a very touristy park, and so we expected it to be as busy as the Grand Canyon. I think it probably is in the summer, but thankfully while we were there it wasn't too busy really. There are no shuttle buses like there are at the Grand Canyon and Zion, so we were able to drive around freely and stop for as long as we liked at the various lookouts. Yellowstone is a vast park. We could have spent weeks there and still not seen everything. But we got a good feel for the place in our few days. It is full of forest land, and more wild bison than I've seen anywhere else. Dan was hopeful of seeing some bears and so we spent the entire time on the lookout for either black bears or grizzlies. We had heard that Yellowstone was the place to see them, although they remained illusive to us for quite some time.

Obviously, one of the main features of Yellowstone is that its a park inside an active volcano. The volcanic activity there was obvious to see. Naturally we stopped to watch Old Faithful, the geyser, erupt - which to be honest, we all found a bit of an anti-climax. Especially young Barney who said "is that it?" loud enough for most of the gathering crowd to hear. We drove around the park and stopped at many of the volcanic areas. Our first stop was at a set of bubbling volcanic pools, with water so clear, pure and inviting, that we all felt an urge to jump into them. However, doing so would have meant certain death, so we refrained. Jimmie noticed a boiled lizard floating around one of the pools! These pools had no smell to them, they just bubbled, steamed and popped. It looked like the surface of another planet. Later on we found more of these pools that were sulphur based, and they absolutely wreaked of rotten eggs! Disgusting! One of the pools was bright yellow from the sulphur. We also saw some mud volcanoes, which were basically big pools of bubbling, squirting runny mud. The kids enjoyed this part of the park, and learnt about volcanoes on their way around. The Yellowstone Junior Ranger program was the most challenging so far and really required their best effort.

The waterfalls and canyons in the park were beautiful places. As usual the photos really don't do them justice. After three days Dan still wanted to see a bear, and he was beginning to wind me up groaning about bear hunting all the time. We had already seen a lot of wildlife including this coyote, and this strange looking bird.
But Dan wouldn't be satisfied until he saw a real live wild bear. We even saw bald eagles in their nests with their newly hatched babies.

But eventually Dan got his wish and we noticed a crowd of people had pulled over to look down into a meadow. We stopped the RV and discovered three big black bears wandering around below. It was an exciting moment. We both wished we had a camera with a proper zoom lens to get some good photos at this point. We did get a few photos which you can see here, but we just enjoyed watching them for half an hour. Its so much more exciting to see animals in the wild than it is in a zoo.

Dan was happy that he'd seen a bear, and I was happy that he was happy. But on our last night at Yellowstone on the way back to our camp site we were lucky enough to see a mother Grizzly Bear with her cub, quite near our RV. She was huge and impressive, and the cub was playful and gorgeous. They looked so harmless, even though they could rip us apart in seconds! The grizzly was trying to get down to the road with her cub to cross over into the grasslands. She had to wait until night time as a bit of a crowd had gathered, but we saw the next day that she had made it across safely. I can't tell you the excitement we all felt at seeing the grizzly bears in their natural habitat so closely. We also saw a mother black bear with two cubs playing in the trees. So we've truly seen the bears now. We left the park feeling satisfied and now we are on the final leg of our trip. The home run. Across Idaho and Oregon into California.

The rest of the photos from Yellowstone can be seen here. Don't forget to read the post below about Grand Teton, if you have missed it.

Thursday, 5 June 2008

Grand Teton, Wyoming

What an amazing state Wyoming has turned out to be. I think it may possibly be my favourite state so far, despite the cold weather and snow. I didn’t really know anything about Wyoming, other than that we’d be visiting Yellowstone there.

But our first stop was at the Grand Teton national park. The Grand Teton’s have been voted the best national park so far by every member of our family. The scenery is second to none, and we have seen more wildlife here than anywhere else. You just can’t miss it. We could have stayed there for weeks!

In all we spent 4 days at the Teton’s. We drove all over the park and stopped at many places. The first two days were spent driving around and stopping at the various points of interest. We discovered Leigh Lake, a small lake next to the larger Jenny Lake, with the most amazingly clear water, surrounded by mountains. It was just like finding paradise. I lay on the bench there for an hour and just watched the kids playing, whilst Dan took a walk around the lake. Jimmie tried to paddle in the water but it was ice cold, whilst little Barney played with a mound of snow with his bucket and spade.

The highlight for us, apart from the spectacular scenery was the amount of wildlife wandering about the place. On our first night dry camping at one of the campgrounds, Dan and Barney went for a walk, just in the woods behind our RV. Much to their surprise, as they were walking through, they almost trod on a moose! The moose was napping in the woodland, and Dan didn’t see it laying there. The moose saw Dan just in time and sprung up onto his feet and headed into the woods. Dan ran in to get me so that Barney could try to show me the moose. And right enough, there it was grazing in the woodlands, just behind our RV. We were all so excited to discover the moose so accidentally.

We saw moose a few times after that, although they seemed to like hiding in the woodlands. Dan also saw a grizzly bear and her cubs running off into the wetlands, but they were too far away to get a good photo. On our drives through the park we regularly saw deer and antelope grazing in herds. We were fortunate enough to be driving along one road just as a herd of wild bison (or buffalo) were making their way across the road. They wandered across the road, totally oblivious to the cars, taking their time as if they owned land, which they probably do. The kids and I watched them through the RV window whilst Dan was more adventurous and went outside to take some photos. He was very careful as we’d read all the park warnings about how dangerous bison can be, and how fast they can run at a man. But it was amazing to see how many incredibly stupid tourists got so close to them in order to get the perfect photo. There were about 5 or 6 buffalo in this herd, and they looked at us through the RV window as they wandered past. Later we saw more herds grazing in other fields too.

One of the highlights for wee Barney was his discovery of a mother fox and her cubs. We were sitting in the RV sorting out some laundry, whilst Barney was intently staring out of the window for about 10 minutes. Suddenly he yelled “there’s a coyote!” so we all ran over to the window. His discovery wasn’t a coyote, but in fact a fox. She had come out of her burrow and was checking out the area for predators, I think. She ran to various corners of the field, looking out for wild animals (although she didn’t seem to be at all bothered by us humans). As we got outside for a closer look we discovered she had three babies in her burrow. Once she was sure the area was safe, she let the babies out for a play. Barney was just overjoyed at his discovery. The three cubs were a joy to watch. They were so playful, bounding over each other, clawing at each other, just enjoying the fresh air and chance for exercise. Eventually the mother put the cubs back inside while she went off to hunt. By this time quite a crowd of people had formed to see the foxes. Typically some people just can’t respect the space animals need, and tried to climb down the bank for better photos of the cubs. I get so cross when humans invade animal territory like that, all for the best photo. One man was obviously cross as well and called out “there’s always someone who has to take it too far!” Good for him. But our Barney was pleased that he had discovered the foxes, and no one else would have had the joy of seeing them if it wasn’t for him. It made his day.

Another spectacular moment for us was the discovery of an Elk in the woodlands. We were driving along when I spotted what looked just like one of Santa’s reindeer in the hedges. We parked up and Dan went to venture off for a peek at the animal. The Elk was as interested in us as we were in him. He raised his head and antlers as if he was king of the forest and posed for a few photos. He looked so majestic with his new fury antlers. Later in the year the Elk sharpen their antlers against trees, and they become less reindeer looking. But this Elk had huge big furry antlers, and with the sun behind him they shone like an antler halo! What an awesome sight.

The Teton area is truly one of the most beautiful places on the planet. We were there just as the snow was melting. The roads were snow free, but the mountains were still snow capped, and there were mounds of snow about the place. Our campsite still had a lot of snow in it, and the kids had a great time sledging down it on the body board they had bought in Florida. All three of them came in with soaked shoes and feet. It was strange to be able to play in snow, but to be in the sunshine at the star of summer. The area wasn’t at all cold, unless you buried your feet in the snow like my kids. The area had a lot of woodlands, wetlands, lakes, mountains and meadows. Every type of scenery one could wish for really. I think if we ever had to move to America, we would chose Wyoming for a home.

The rest of the Grand Teton photos are here.

Tuesday, 27 May 2008

Welcome to Idaho

Welcome to Idaho! Idaho feels like home, like Ireland. Its very green, full of fields and hills, sheep and cattle. Some of the towns we drove through reminded us of the outskirts of Banbridge.

We have been enjoying over a week of solid rain now. It rained in Utah, it rained as we drove through Wyoming, and its raining in Idaho. We are beginning to wonder if the rain will ever stop.

We left Utah and took some of the scenic roads through the edge of Wyoming to Idaho. We will be back in Wyoming soon enough, to visit Teton and Yellowstone national parks. But right now we are enjoying some of Idaho's small towns.

Today we are in a town called 'Hot Lava Springs'. As you can guess, its named after the hot spings which are heated by lava here. The town is a quaint little place. A street full of motels, with a bar and a few shops. We took a trip to the hot spring pools this afternoon. Although we weren't at all prepared for how hot they really are! Poor little Barney couldn't get in the pool. He has his baths pretty cold compared to the rest of us. We all sat on the step for quite some time before venturing into the water. Eventually we had a swim though, and it was nice.

After we got out of the pool the rain and hail started. It would have been so cool to be in the hot pool during the hail storm! Tomorrow we are taking the kids to the other pool, not hot, with slides and fun stuff. After tomorrow we are slowly heading up to Teton National park in Wyoming, and Yellowstone. Lets hope the rain stops sometime soon.



Monday, 26 May 2008

Canyonlands National Park, Utah

Our last full day in Moab was spent at the Canyonlands National Park. One of the smaller parks we've visited, but a beautiful place none the less. The weather was still really wet when we got there, but it dried out into a sunny day by the end. We spent about 3 hours driving through the park and stopping at the various lookouts. I am still trying to find a big horn sheep, which apparently live in many of these parks, but they remain a mystery to me, and I'm starting to wonder if they really exist.

Our favourite part of Canyonlands was the stop to see Mesa Arch. The 10 minute walk up steps to see the arch was well worth it. The natural arch exists right at a cliff edge. We couldn't see the cliff as we walked up to it, until we looked through the arch. It was funny to watch every one walk up to the arch and then hear them gasp as they saw the sudden drop they were standing right next to!

We have now left Moab and driven north through Utah. We spent two days relaxing at a KOA RV park in Provo, just south of Salt Lake City. The park seems to be run by three very friendly 15 or 16 year old goth boys, with faces full of piercings and jet black hair! Maybe they work at the weekend. They were lovely helpful lads though, despite their appearance.

Today we are heading north again to Idaho. We plan to take a scenic drive through Idaho and Wyoming, which will last a few days, until we get to Yellowstone National Park. We've been told its a very busy, touristy place (a bit like the Grand Canyon) but we will go and see it while we are here. After Yellowstone we will be on the last leg of our journey westward across Idaho and Oregon, then back down into California.

With regards to the pregnancy, I am now 11 weeks pregnant and Barney is drawing cute pictures of Mummy with a baby in her tummy. I had a two week stint of feeling so tired that I could barely lift my arms let alone get out of bed. I had about one week of morning sickness, where I felt nauseous and just wanted to go home. But that all seems to have passed and I feel like myself again now. I can't tell you how releived I am to feel well again. With all three of my previous pregnancies I suffered almost constant morning sickness for a full nine months. The fact that I'm not this time is a true blessing.

Monday, 19 May 2008

Colorado so far....

We've spent a good few days resting in Colorado. We did so much driving through Utah the last few weeks that we were all totally shattered. So we booked into an RV park Country Village in Montrose to just relax for a few days. This RV park is managed or run (I highly doubt they are the owners) by the most miserable woman on the face of the earth. Dan was scared to go into the office when he needed to. She seemed totally unable of smiling, grunted a lot, was kind of put out that we wanted to stay the night as it meant she had to do some work. Her husband, on the other hand, smiles more than anyone I've ever met. What a couple. I wonder if the people who own the park realise what an awful welcome she is giving their guests.

Anyway, we spent two full days lounging around and doing nothing of any importance. I slept for most of it, waking up for the occassion bout of mild morning sickness. Jimmie found a snake on our doorstep and we all ran outside to take photos of it. I dont know how to tell which snakes are poisonous, but this one moved at the speed of lightening when it wanted to.

After two days of rest Dan was itching to do something so we headed up to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison national park. It's one of the smaller, quieter parks we've visited, and was much less grand than the likes of Zion or the Grand Canyon, but still a lovely place with amazing views of the Rockies. We stayed in the campsite there which has electric hookups. Luckily for us the camp site wasnt busy so we were able to choose a nice big level site surrounded by grass and trees. A lot of the sites were very unlevel, and I'd hate to have to park an RV here during the busier months.


We spent our first day at Black Gunnison enjoying the beautiful weather outside our RV. Dan finished reading the third book of the trip (a biography of Kurt Cobain from Nirvana) and I lay in the sun for an hour. Jimmie ran around the trees and bushes for hours, as he always does when released into the wild. Barney spent a good few hours digging RV parks into the gravel with a spade and then parking his cars in it (now a favourite game of his) and Annabelle spent most of the time reading.


The next day however we set out to explore the park. We basically just drove through the park stopping at all the lookout points. The views over the canyon were spectacular, and the kids had junior ranger questions to answer at each stop.


Today we are heading back to Utah where we will stop at Moab and the Arches national park before heading north.

Thursday, 15 May 2008

Colorado

I'm so excited to finally have seen the Rockies, walked in the snow and experienced the amazing alpine mountains of Colorado. The mountain views here are everything I thought they would be. I just don't ever want to leave.

This place is such a change from all the desert regions we have visited. To start with it is cold, and today it is raining. But despite the coldness and the snow it seems usually bright and sunny. We started in Cortez, just on the border of Colorado and New Mexico and visited the Mesa Verde national park (see blog post below this one). Then we headed north along the San Juan scenic byway, through some spectacular scenery. This scenery is nothing like what we have seen so far... snow topped jagged mountains, miles upon miles of alpine forest feet deep in snow, gushing torrential rivers and mountain log cabins. I tell you, this is a place that I could live quite happily. Not far along the San Juan byway we stopped for breakfast. We drove into a little byway just by the gushing Dolores River where we sat and ate bacon sandwiches. It wasn't snowy in this region, but the river was so rapid from all the melted snow coming down from the mountains. We sat for an hour to take in the scenery, whilst the kids fashioned arrow heads from flint. They had such fun doing that.

The drive all the way to Tullaride was just so spectacular that it took us a few hours instead of just one hour, as we kept stopping so many times. We stopped at one point to let the kids play in the snow. They took out some cardboard boxes with them and used them to slide down the slopes. It was strange to be warm in the snow - we didn't need any coats, hats or gloves, as it's the spring time.

We drove on to Tullaride, a town recommended to us at the visitors centre. We had hoped to stay there over night but the town had no RV parks, so we just drove through it. Tullaride is a quaint little town set at the foot of the mountain. The houses in it are just adorable beach hut style mountain log cabins. Dan pointed out that everyone in the town was young, lol.

From Tullaride we took a few back roads to try to find some free camping that we were told about. We couldn't find the camping but the drives were worth it anyway. Eventually we arrived in a town called Ridgeway, where we spent the night in a tiny RV park called Webber's. The man who owned it let us stay at less than the advertised price, and then gave us a site with the most beautiful view over fields full of cows and horses, to a valley with a snow capped mountain in the distance. It was like something from a post card.

We have now moved on to the next town and we plan to rest here for maybe four days as we've just done so much driving lately. There are some hot springs nearby, and another national park, so we will venture out to them at some point. There are many more photos like this in the Colorado Album so do check them out.

Wednesday, 14 May 2008

Monument Valley

From the first day we started planning this trip there were two places I really wanted to see. Monument Valley in Utah/Arizona and the Rockies in Colorado. On Sunday we finally made the trip down to Monument Valley, on Mothers Day of all days. The kids woke me up with home made mothers day cards, and a DVD about the art of tattooing. That was cool. One kid (who shall remain nameless) woke me up with a moonie of the face drawn on their bottom!!

We only had an hours drive to get to Monument Valley. When I saw the monuments in the distance I got very excited. We stopped at a Navajo Indian stall on the way in, to take some photos of the valley in the distance and to look at the Indian jewelry. Both Jimmie and Annabelle saw something they wanted to buy from the stall. The necklaces were $12 each, but when the owner of the stall heard me tell them they'd have to use their own money he told them they could have them for $10 each. Little Barney was begging to buy something but I kept telling him he'd be better saving his money for a toy in Walmart than an Indian necklace. The stall holder must have felt sorry for him, as he picked him out a blue necklace made with juniper berries and gave it to him for free. He showed him the Juniper Tree and told him about how he made it. Barney was way more impressed with his gift necklace than he would have been if I'd bought it for him.

A few days before Barney had asked me if Indians were bad people. When I explained that they were nice people, he said he thought they were bad because they fought the cow boys. After the Indian man gave him the necklace he said to me "you're right Mummy, Indian people really are nice".

The drive into Monument Valley was as beautiful as I'd expected, although it was quite an overcast (yet hot) day. We stopped countless times to take photos. We saw wild horses wandering around the roads and Dan got a photo of two of them in front of the monuments. We paid $20 to get into the Indian run tourist part of the monument. This was really wasted money as we could see as well from the roads anyway. The visitor centre there was closed, and we couldn't take the RV on the scenic drive as the roads were unpaved. So we basically paid $20 to sit in a car park and eat lunch. We did take a walk down to the little Indian village and have a look in homes there.

It turns out that there isn't an RV park for about 150 miles either side of Monument Valley, which we didn't realise. So we ended up driving till late in the evening to a town in Colorado, just to find somewhere to sleep. The kids though we excellent the whole time. They are really getting used to traveling so much and entertain themselves every time.

Monday, 12 May 2008

Capital Reef National Park, Utah

We didn't really plan to visit the Capital Reef park. But we had a choice of two routes to get past Lake Powell to Monument Valley in Arizona. We had already traveled most of route 1 on our way from Zion to Bryce, so we decided to drive the longer route 2 over the top of Lake Powell in order to see some different scenery on the way. Our half way point on this several hundred mile drive happened to be Capital Reef National Park. We only spent half a day there before heading on towards Monument Valley in Arizona but it was well worth the visit.
This quiet little national park is full of fruit orchards. In the summer visitors can eat the fruit for free, but we were there at the wrong time of year for that. The drive into the park took us past many huge rock formations with names such as 'the fluted wall', or 'the castle'. We stopped at the visitors cente to pick up the junior ranger programs which the kids completed on the 20 mile scenic drive. They had to interview a ranger as part of the project and came up with some good questions for him. Little Barney asked 'what happens to a lizard after it dies?' and learnt that it is a waste to bury animals as they serve as food for other animals. The scenic drive was well worth doing, and we stopped for a picnic in one of the orchards on the way back.
Before heading off on the rest of our jounrey we stopped to view the petroglyphs. The kids and I were quite excited to see rock art that had been left by Indians who had passed through the area over a thousand years ago. The art is much bigger than it appears. These etchings are lifesife, but still we all thought they looked like kiddies drawings. Apparently they were made as part of a ceremony to entice the big horn sheep back into the area.
After our brief half day visit to this park we carried on with our journey and drove hundreds of miles through Utahs wilderness. I have never seen anywhere so desolate. For about 200 miles we did not pass one single house or business. We almost ran out of gas too! Before discovering a town with a gas station and RV park where we spent the night, totally shattered.

Sunday, 11 May 2008

Scenic Byway 12 - an all American Road

I'm not entirely sure what an 'all American road' is, but scenic byway number 12 is definitely worth a visit. It was our route from Bryce Canyon to Capital Reef national park, and what a journey it was.

We stopped over night in an RV park in a small town (more of a street really) called Tropic. Then spent the following day driving to just outside Capital Reef. The drive was long, but so scenic. We drove through canyons, over mountains, past hundreds of miles of desolate land. We found the quaintest little cafe built into the side of a canyon cliff where we stopped for a coffee and to admire the view. We drove so high up into a mountain that the RV barely made it. From the top there was a lookout called 'as far as the eye can see', and it wasn't lying. We were standing in a snowy area looking out over a wilderness bigger than Luxembourg. The following day after visiting Capital Reef we found ourselves driving for hours through that same wilderness that we had looked down upon.

I don't need to say too much about the drive, as I can just post the photos. Click on each photo to see the large photo....





Saturday, 10 May 2008

Bryce Canyon, Utah

Utah is turning out to be the most beautiful and diverse state we have visited so far. The whole of southern Utah seems to be filled entirely with national parks and forests. I wonder if anyone other than park rangers live here! We are in a colder climate now, often surrounded by rapidly melting snow, and sleeping with the heating on at night. My tan will have well and truly worn off by the time we get home to Banbridge. We have been traveling over three months now. I think we have about 6 or 7 weeks of travel left and will be home on July 4th. To be honest we never know what day of the week it is, or what time zone we are in any more. We often turn up to camp sites just to realise its the weekend and therefore the sites are packed.

Bryce Canyon National Park was a place like no place I've ever seen before. I have seen images of Utah on TV etc and looked forward to seeing these things for myself. Bryce is full of 'Hoodoos' which are the odd shape phalic type orange rock formations that have been shaped over centuries by wind and rain erosion. They are an odd site to see. Beautiful in a strange way. Not like the overpowering majestic beauty of Zion, but curiously, strangely pretty.

The drive from Zion to Bryce was a long one, so we stopped at a campsite outside of Bryce NP and rested over night, and did a bit of laundry and internet updating. The following morning we set off early into Bryce Canyon, where we spent the day. The kids completed their ranger programs and now have quite a collection of Junior Ranger badges. We spent the day driving from each lookout to the next in the canyon. Dan took a walk down into the canyon while the kids and I made lunch. I just didn't have the engery for the strenuous climb back up, but I could tell that Dan was itching to explore. So he climbed down and walked aroung and through the hoodoos. Some of them have walkways drilled through them. From the ground the hoodoos look an entirely different site than from above.

The various overlooks along the way all have enchanting names like 'Fairyland Point', 'Inspiration Point', 'Agua Canyon' or 'Rainbow Point'. In truth Inspiration Point truly was an inspiring place to look out over Bryce Canyon. Although Dan and I found it hard to breathe at such high elevations. At first I thought I was terribly unfit as a short walk up to the lookouts left me gasping for breath. Then I noticed Dan doing the same. Then everyone else was too, and someone explained that the air is much thinner at high altitudes and the slightest bit of exhertion leaves one breathless. I was releived it wasn't just my fitness.

As we drove to Rainbow Point, the furthest point in the park and the highest elevation, we started to drive through alpine forests still covered with a thick layer of snow. During the winter this area gets many feet of snow and the park is not open to traffic. Now the snow is melting but there are still huge piles of it about the place. It was at this point we saw some large wild turkey crossing the road. They are funny looking creatures, and so huge. When we reached Rainbow Point the kids couldnt wait to get out and play in the snow. It was strange to be playing in the snow after so much time in the desert. But even here it wasn't cold enough to need a coat, or hat and gloves.

As we left Bryce Canyon we saw some wild deer roaming the forest land, and we stopped to watch them and to take some photos.

I had another photo to upload but my connection is too bad to let me load it. I'm gonna just upload this blog post now, unfinished, while I can. I'm so sick of bad internet connections.


Wednesday, 7 May 2008

Zion National Park, Utah








Finally, after days and days of no internet connection we are in an RV park that has sporadic connection possibilities. It has taken me no less than 4 hours to upload the photos from the Grand Canyon and Zion National Park onto Facebook. What with getting disconnected every 5 minutes. Ahh, what I wouldn't do for some reliable internet connection right now. Anyway, there are new albums in the sidebar now. One for the Grand Canyon, two for Zion (yes we went a little crazy with the photos there). New photos from Bryce will be loaded into Utah Album 2 at some point. There are a few new photos in the last Arizona album too (which go with the post below this one).

Well, blow me down, I think we went and found paradise! I had been warned about the beauty of Utah, in particular Zion. But the entire family was just blown away as we drove through the east entrance into the park. The scenery here was totally different to anything we'd seen so far. Mountains carved out of ancient sand dunes, the Virgin River coursing through the middle, alpine trees growing out of orange and pink rock. Zion was so beautiful that even the photos I took from the passenger seat of the RV whilst driving look spectacular.

All three kids sat with their noses to the windows as we drove forty minutes into the park. It was like a magical wonderland, like nothing we'd ever seen before. To my horror we discovered we had to drive through a one mile mountain tunnel to get into the centre of the park. A one mile unlit tunnel, that was only just tall enough for our RV. In fact, for RV's to pass through the tunnel, the road has to be closed at either end, so that the RV can drive in the centre of the tunnel without tearing its roof apart. Well, being extremely claustrophobic I don't like tunnels. I particularly don't like one mile long pitch black tunnels where the roof is inches from the top of the vehicle1 We waited at the tunnel entrance for the road to be shut at the other end (we paid $15 for the privilege) and eventually we led the way through. It was at this point that we discovered one of our headlights wasn't working. So the pitch black drive was not easy. Dan was stressed about trying to stay in the middle of the road, so as not to rip the roof off the RV, and I was holding my breath and talking myself out of hysteria. Nevertheless we made it through in one piece (even if I had to lie down for a few hours with an awful headache afterwards).

We couldn't sleep in Zion the first night as it was a Saturday, we'd arrived late and the camp sites were full. But the ranger there told us about a free place to stay just outside the park - land that belongs to the DLM or something. We headed there expecting to find an old car park or wasteland, but instead found a beautiful sandy riverside campsite. At first we got stuck in the sand. Thelma II's wheels got burried deep and I thought we'd never get out. But Dan got us out eventually and we parked up right by the river in a lovely secluded spot. It was great to hear the sound of the rapid river gushing by all night long.

The following morning we headed back to Zion and booked three nights in one of the campgrounds there. The campground itself was surrounded by spectacular orange coloured mountains. Jimmie and Barney spent many happy hours playing outside there. They have a new game where Jimmie digs the tracks of an RV park into the soil and Barney fills it with various cars and trucks. He spends hours playing with those miniature RV parks. The campground had more caterpillars than I ever knew existed on the planet. Every where you stood, you were treading on them. We'd find them crawling up our shoes, up our arms, on our wheels, on our seats. It was quite amazing. Also, because of all the Cottonwood Trees in the campground it seemed as if it was gently snowing all the time. The soft cotton blows in the breeze and you'd swear it looked like snow.

I have to say that one of the most spectacular drives you could ever take is the drive through the east entrance into the park. But many of the visitors to Zion miss that, as they enter through the south entrance and use the park shuttle bus to reach the various hiking areas. Because of the sheer amount of visitors and the congestion caused by their vehicles Zion has started to operate a free shuttle bus service throughout one route of the canyon. Much like the Grand Canyon does. We made a lot of use of the shuttle. The shuttle stops at various points of interesting for views and hiking. As usual the kids completed the parks junior ranger program, so we were always busy at every stop looking up information and answering questions.

Over our four days in Zion we made several stops, had lovely picnics beneath the mountains and went on many hikes. The first hike we took was the trail up to the Emerald Pools, at the Zion Lodge stop. It was an uphill trail, so Barney got tired quickly. I walked with him to the first pool and waterfall, then we headed back to Zion Lodge for an ice cream whilst Dan, Jimmie and Annabelle carried on with the hike up to the upper pools. This is one of the more popular hikes on the shuttle route, but we discovered much nicer hikes later on. The emerald pools weren't that spectacular, but the hike followed the line of the river, up to some small water falls and some amazing rock formations. There is no where in Zion that isn't extremely beautiful, so it's impossible to be disappointed.

We took another hike from The Grotto stop to Zion Lodge. We had intended to take 'The Grotto' trail, but we took a wrong turn somewhere and ended up taking a scenic walk along the river side. We saw lots of evidence of the beavers that lived there. There were trees that the beavers had knocked down, trees that they were in the process of chewing, and beaver dams at the sides of the river banks. The Virgin River is too rough for the beavers to build their dams in, so they build them on the banks instead.

Dan loved Zion so much that he got up early every morning to go on hikes before the rest of us awoke. Some of the hikes are very strenuous and can't be made with a four year old. The third hike we took as a family was up to the Weeping Rock. This was a lovely, paved, easy walk. Uphill on the way there, and down hill on the way back. It was only a half mile walk but the view at the end was worth a ten mile walk! The weeping rock seeps drips of cooling water out, and when you walk under it, it feels like a waterfall. The kids all got drenched by standing with their heads under the drips. I could have sat at the end of that walk for days just looking out at the view.

Perhaps the most memorable hike for the kids was the walk to the 'Temple of Sinawara'. A walk along the river that gets narrower the further you proceed into the canyon. It was strange to be inside a canyon looking up at the extremely tall cliffs and wondering what the view was like up there, when only a few days before we had been at the top of the Grand Canyon, looking down and wondering the same thing. Along our riverside walk we stopped to catch our breath. Dan sat down on a rock there and put the ruck sack on the ground. From out of no where arrived this cheeky little squirrel. He could smell something and was desperate to find it. He ran all over Dan sniffing for food until he discovered our ruck sack. Without hesitation he rummaged right into the ruck sack and helped himself to hand fulls of popcorn! It was such a funny sight that some Japanese tourists started filming the whole thing! But it made a great memory for the kids. This little squirrel wanted popcorn, and took pop corn. It's something the will talk about for years to come.

Later on that same walk we stopped at a little beach side area. The kids and their Dad spent some time throwing stones into the river, while Barney spent some time covering his legs with mud. We all sat around and had a good family chat here about all sorts of things. It was one of the real special family moments on this trip. On our way back to the shuttle, walking past huge rocks, vast canyons and the river, our day was just made perfect as we spotted our first snake! Yes, for three months we have wanted to see a real wild snake, and finally we have seen it! You can see a photo of it by clicking here.

On one of the days we took a trip outside the park to get a few necessities. As we pulled into a gas station a man from the garage next door came over to tell us that one of our wheels was a bit flat. He was a mechanic and as he examined the wheels he was horrified to discover that we needed 6 new wheels. He phoned Cruise America and told them that they'd rented out an RV for two months that had cracked wheels. I thought he might just be touting for business but Dan looked at the tires and they really were cracked. Cruise America agreed for him to replace the wheels, at a cost to them of $1800 ! I was more than a little angry that Cruise America rented us an RV with both a broken headlight and 6 dodgy wheels. I mean, its not as if we are only hiring it for a week, we are here for 5 months!

The highlight of our last night at Zion was having a camp fire and roasting marshmallows. The kids always enjoy that. This morning we said goodbye to paradise and headed eastwards to Bryce National Park. Tonight we are staying just outside that park and will head in there tomorrow. It's much colder here and there are still patches of snow about the place. Tonight we have had rain for the first time since we drove through Houston in Texas.